I went surfing yesterday, drove almost 3 hours to meet my friends and hop on a car for another 3 or so more hours of road trip. My logical self wouldn't let me do this, but surf is vital to my existence that it was a no-brainer. Faces of stoke Post surf aka stoke convos We went to a spot that I've only surfed once before. My friends said the paddle was about 10 minutes but it felt like 30 minutes to me. The first time I surfed it, we had to paddle against strong current and white waters for an hour, only to catch one wave and almost drown because my leash snapped. But yesterday was perfect for a comeback surf for me and Abe. Beautiful day to be out Abe spoils us with freshly brewed coffee Everything aligned, the waves were in their fun size, the wind was being a bit playful with offshore, side shore breeze, the sun was shining, the blue sky was decorated with cumulus clouds, which created that thousand diamonds imagery, the water was clear enough that it ...
"The more clearly we can focus our attention on the wonders and realities of the universe about us, the less we shall have for destruction." - Alain de Botton