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Comeback Surf

I went surfing yesterday, drove almost 3 hours to meet my friends and hop on a car for another 3 or so more hours of road trip. My logical self wouldn't let me do this, but surf is vital to my existence that it was a no-brainer.
Faces of stoke

Post surf aka stoke convos

We went to a spot that I've only surfed once before. My friends said the paddle was about 10 minutes but it felt like 30 minutes to me.  The first time I surfed it, we had to paddle against strong current and white waters for an hour, only to catch one wave and almost drown because my leash snapped. But yesterday was perfect for a comeback surf for me and Abe.

Beautiful day to be out

Abe spoils us with freshly brewed coffee


Everything aligned, the waves were in their fun size, the wind was being a bit playful with offshore, side shore breeze, the sun was shining, the blue sky was decorated with cumulus clouds, which created that thousand diamonds imagery, the water was clear enough that it was a joy to duck dive with my eyes open. It was an attack to all the senses (yes, even the smell, sea smell!)




Paddling out was a joy in itself. Imagine when I took my first ride, I felt like a baby learning to walk/balance. I was surprised and overjoyed that I could stand up and glide with the wave's lip. Now that I think about it, I'm reminded of the moment when I learned how to ride a bicycle. It only got better from there.

The home that always welcomes us

My most favorite ride was when I was gliding up and down that I created enough speed to "fly off" my board when I exited the wave. 

We surfed for 4 hours, I didn't realize how every part of my body is working when I surf until yesterday. I guess prior to that, surfing has been part of my routine that my body was used to it. But because I've been out for almost 4 months, I noticed them. I felt all of the muscles working, lower back, legs, arms, and the worst, my muscles near the back  of my neck! It was really getting into me yesterday that I had to mentally condition myself to forget about it.

I didn't think I would be feeling those things because I've been active in New York, doing capoeira, yoga, Bollywood class and other exercises. I realized how every corner of my body is at work when I surf, it was a good perspective to have. A reminder to do more surf exercises.

There is good segue from that to this...

What made that sesh perfect was the company! I was with my surf family and they were so supportive of me and Abe, who haven't surf in 1.5 year because he was healing his shoulders. They were giving us priority, in the  beginning, which was not really common before. It was nice to be have that beginner advantage, but then they started dropping in on me, again! Kidding, it was friendly and mostly unintentional and happened only once or twice. Dadsie was really good at giving me the right feedback.
Ice cream stop over

It was the least conversational sesh I've been on, I was in my own space watching the sky, waiting for waves and eventually craving about that biryani in Mysore, I have no idea why, but when I'm so stoked I long for that biryani taste, I wait for the day when I get to actully fix that craving with an actual biryani, as for yesterday's situation I rewarded myself with good food, beer and Magnum.

Reward

Packing up

There were 5 of us in the line up, we were surfing for 4 hours under the sun, occasionally singing and dancing in the line up. Time dilated. We were so stoked.
 


Abe
 

Bromance


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