Last week, I've gotten my first barrel. It was not how I imagined it to be because 1. I thought I would have time to enjoy it, but it was too fast and it was too scary and I closed my eyes that I didn't see it happen, I felt it. 2. I didn't actually think that it was the day and the place where I'd get barreled. But I guess Im lucky than most, because its rare that one's first barrel is captured and immortalized in an image.
The spot is called Speedy Gonzaleft, the name will make sense once you see how fast the surf breaks, it will make more sense when actually surf it. You will find yourself saying, "that's why..." once you surf it and wish that it slows down a little bit.
Going to the Gonzaleft is a production, you need to take a car, then motorbike, pass by streams, rivers, narrow bridges, military check points, dirt road, pink soiled road, orange soiled road, etc. I guess you get the drift. Just imagine yourself, riding a vibrating chair for more than an hour, while your sight is fed with beautiful sights.
This was the first board ride setup that lasted for about 15 mins, when the tire broke and we had to distribute the boards amongst ourselves. We had to fit the boards and 3 persons in one motorbike (just like the photo above but leave 3 boards at the back and squeeze in 2 warm bodies. I kid you not when I say, breathing was a struggle in that setup.
Like all things new and rare, I found the journey exciting and fascinating, the kind of joy I fell when I step out of plane to a totally foreign land. I mean, how often does one find herself in that situation and in the beautiful sights that we pass by. I was thinking to myself, I fly to different countries to see things like this!
It seemed like I was not the only one who found joy in it, while we were half-way the trip, Abe shouted, "okay na ako, kahit di makasurf," now it could be that I misread him. But his voice sounded like he was happy just to take that journey, that its okay if he doesn't get to surf (which was the end-goal of the trip).
Going back to the surf, it was the boldest sesh I've ever gotten myself into. Because of few reasons:
1. The waves were really big and really fast. It was not my preferred big, peeling, friendly waves, like my favorite Baby Reef. It was big, fast, intimidating. Next to Majestics, it probably was the biggest waves Ive ever surfed. The difference here though was I got to really surf it, in Majestics, I never got to surf the peak.
It was the heaviest wipeouts I've ever experienced. I am lucky because by design or by years of practice, Ive become a calm person, that I don't panic when I get caught in big breaking waves for what feels like forever.
2. There was a see creature that we saw (in different occasions), hanging about 10 meters from our line-up. Rumor has it, that it could either be "Putol" or "Bad Boy" the shark inhabitants of that coast. I've heard about them even before I got to surf Gonzaleft. My family, used to frighten me with stories of locals being attacked by those guys.
According to my family, the rumors are true. But my friends have been surfing that spot for a couple of years now and nothing has happened to them. Also, according to our local guides, they do not attack, some fishermen who hunt fish underwater see them and they don't attack. Also, I checked with my friend whos finishing his marine biology degree, he said that those probably are reef sharks and reef sharks don't attack. But they can be attracted to blood.
During that time, I guess what concerned us most was not to hit the boulders on the shore. There was just this one moment when I felt something that I got scared for just a short moment, but after that, it didn't bothered me anymore. I guess the group I was with handled it well, so that we didn't let it get into us.
3. Although I am not really bothered by the rebels, it added a slight fear-factor/adventure factor that we are entering a zone inhabited by rebels. We were stopped by militaries because they said there were/was an encounter some few days back.
I guess, like most things in life, we get rewarded on the choices which we fully commit ourselves into or when we forget our concern of failing. When we don't hesitate for one bit and we just take the leap. Time and again, this I have proven in surfing. For this sesh, the people I was with are gents were looking after my safety. They kept on reminding me to be safe and all. It got me and I became really cautious of the waves that I took, to a point that I can't paddle to a wave anymore.
After a while, I got jealous of Paco getting all the waves, and decided that I will just take the waves I think wont drag me the boulders. It paid off and I've got the best waves so far. It was not all honey-drops and gumballs, actually, the best rides were the last 2, reward for all the wipe-outs.
The 2nd to the last ride was a long ride and the only ride where I exited with grace. I was smiling after 3 seconds of not seeing the wall closing in on me, and those in the shore were cheering! It was victory! It was the time, when I actually did what I was telling myself since the start of the session, "stay on the lip, stay on the lip" I actually felt Paco possessed me! Haha.
The last ride was the first photo above. I was stoked as the water whirled me inside because I knew it was a big wave that I caught. I must share with you that when I exit a closing wave, I try to jump over the wave. In all other waves that I jumped over, I hit a big blob of water. This one though felt different, there was a hollow and I figured that it was a barrel. Too bad I didn't see it because I always close my eyes.
What I felt was a barrel was confirmed when Ian showed me my photo, which is really cool! I mean, its not everyday that one's first barrel is captured and immortalized in an image. And its not everyday that somebody takes my photo while I surf.
I am really happy because the surfing aspect of my life is at its peak. Its actually the hinge that keeps me sane because other aspects are making me crazy. True to the promise I made for this year, I will surf more and surf better. This is just one reward, I see that there will be more to come, I should just keep on investing.
Bonus:
Check out Abe and Ewart looking old and grey after the sesh. That's the amount of dust their hair gathered from the trip back.It was really hilarious when we figured out.
Screencap of Abe's entry regarding the trip
The spot is called Speedy Gonzaleft, the name will make sense once you see how fast the surf breaks, it will make more sense when actually surf it. You will find yourself saying, "that's why..." once you surf it and wish that it slows down a little bit.
Going to the Gonzaleft is a production, you need to take a car, then motorbike, pass by streams, rivers, narrow bridges, military check points, dirt road, pink soiled road, orange soiled road, etc. I guess you get the drift. Just imagine yourself, riding a vibrating chair for more than an hour, while your sight is fed with beautiful sights.
This was the first board ride setup that lasted for about 15 mins, when the tire broke and we had to distribute the boards amongst ourselves. We had to fit the boards and 3 persons in one motorbike (just like the photo above but leave 3 boards at the back and squeeze in 2 warm bodies. I kid you not when I say, breathing was a struggle in that setup.
Like all things new and rare, I found the journey exciting and fascinating, the kind of joy I fell when I step out of plane to a totally foreign land. I mean, how often does one find herself in that situation and in the beautiful sights that we pass by. I was thinking to myself, I fly to different countries to see things like this!
It seemed like I was not the only one who found joy in it, while we were half-way the trip, Abe shouted, "okay na ako, kahit di makasurf," now it could be that I misread him. But his voice sounded like he was happy just to take that journey, that its okay if he doesn't get to surf (which was the end-goal of the trip).
Going back to the surf, it was the boldest sesh I've ever gotten myself into. Because of few reasons:
1. The waves were really big and really fast. It was not my preferred big, peeling, friendly waves, like my favorite Baby Reef. It was big, fast, intimidating. Next to Majestics, it probably was the biggest waves Ive ever surfed. The difference here though was I got to really surf it, in Majestics, I never got to surf the peak.
It was the heaviest wipeouts I've ever experienced. I am lucky because by design or by years of practice, Ive become a calm person, that I don't panic when I get caught in big breaking waves for what feels like forever.
Im thankful that my only casualties are scratched back, which I got from hitting a big boulder and a broken fin.
2. There was a see creature that we saw (in different occasions), hanging about 10 meters from our line-up. Rumor has it, that it could either be "Putol" or "Bad Boy" the shark inhabitants of that coast. I've heard about them even before I got to surf Gonzaleft. My family, used to frighten me with stories of locals being attacked by those guys.
According to my family, the rumors are true. But my friends have been surfing that spot for a couple of years now and nothing has happened to them. Also, according to our local guides, they do not attack, some fishermen who hunt fish underwater see them and they don't attack. Also, I checked with my friend whos finishing his marine biology degree, he said that those probably are reef sharks and reef sharks don't attack. But they can be attracted to blood.
During that time, I guess what concerned us most was not to hit the boulders on the shore. There was just this one moment when I felt something that I got scared for just a short moment, but after that, it didn't bothered me anymore. I guess the group I was with handled it well, so that we didn't let it get into us.
3. Although I am not really bothered by the rebels, it added a slight fear-factor/adventure factor that we are entering a zone inhabited by rebels. We were stopped by militaries because they said there were/was an encounter some few days back.
I guess, like most things in life, we get rewarded on the choices which we fully commit ourselves into or when we forget our concern of failing. When we don't hesitate for one bit and we just take the leap. Time and again, this I have proven in surfing. For this sesh, the people I was with are gents were looking after my safety. They kept on reminding me to be safe and all. It got me and I became really cautious of the waves that I took, to a point that I can't paddle to a wave anymore.
Paco getting barreled and actually making it out
After a while, I got jealous of Paco getting all the waves, and decided that I will just take the waves I think wont drag me the boulders. It paid off and I've got the best waves so far. It was not all honey-drops and gumballs, actually, the best rides were the last 2, reward for all the wipe-outs.
The 2nd to the last ride was a long ride and the only ride where I exited with grace. I was smiling after 3 seconds of not seeing the wall closing in on me, and those in the shore were cheering! It was victory! It was the time, when I actually did what I was telling myself since the start of the session, "stay on the lip, stay on the lip" I actually felt Paco possessed me! Haha.
This is how I normally exit, except that the wave still gets me and pounds me under
What I felt was a barrel was confirmed when Ian showed me my photo, which is really cool! I mean, its not everyday that one's first barrel is captured and immortalized in an image. And its not everyday that somebody takes my photo while I surf.
I am really happy because the surfing aspect of my life is at its peak. Its actually the hinge that keeps me sane because other aspects are making me crazy. True to the promise I made for this year, I will surf more and surf better. This is just one reward, I see that there will be more to come, I should just keep on investing.
me taking off, praying that I make it
_______________________________________________________________Bonus:
Check out Abe and Ewart looking old and grey after the sesh. That's the amount of dust their hair gathered from the trip back.It was really hilarious when we figured out.
Screencap of Abe's entry regarding the trip
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